As a 20-year-old Persian student from California studying in London, I’ve been missing the comforting flavors of home-cooked Persian food. So, when my uncle offered to take me to Berenjak a couple of weeks ago, a Persian restaurant in Soho, I was excited as I’ve heard Persian food is exceptional in London. Could it capture the rich meals full of love I grew up with?
Stepping into Berenjak feels like walking into a modern take on a traditional Persian restaurant. The decor is a combination of nostalgia and refinement, full of the more traditional-colored tiles and exposed brick while also having a sophisticated vibe with the glistening open grill. The space is intimate, filled with conversation and the aroma of all the rich food to come. It immediately brought to mind family gatherings back home, where food is a language of love.
Berenjak’s menu offers a flavorful journey through Persian cuisine, blending the nostalgic tastes of traditional dishes with a modern, elevated approach. Inspired by the bustling street food culture and family-style meals of Iran, the menu features a variety of small plates, kababs grilled over open flames, and freshly baked bread.
Now, about my meal. It began with Taftoon Bread, similar to naan, served with classic dips kashk-e bademjan (smoky eggplant) and Mast-o-Musir (yogurt and shallots), two of my favorites. Each bite took me back home, feeling as if my mom or grandmother had just cooked this up in the kitchen.
Berenjak’s take on kashk-e bademjan, a creamy eggplant dish aims for a contemporary spin but falls short of expectations. Familiar elements like charred eggplant and tangy whey are present, yet the addition of pomegranate seeds and chili oil feels more experimental than cohesive. Having eaten this dish countless times, I found the bold flavors clashing rather than complementing, leaving me nostaligc and wanting for the simpler, more balanced versions I am more familiar with.
For the main course, we ordered Kebab Koobideh and of course, it stood out. The juicy, perfectly spiced lamb skewers paired with saffron rice were as authentic as they come. Back home my family has a trick to mix a raw egg yolk with the rice, so when the rice arrived at Berenjak, I was impressed to see the egg had already been mixed in. I’d never seen a restaurant do it for you; typically you must ask but to see them do it for everyone, I instantly knew this place was the right choice.
Dessert is where Berenjak surprised me. The Faloodeh, a fragrant rosewater sorbet with delicate rice noodles, was intensely refreshing and brought back memories of family gatherings where Persian culture was always present. Its floral sweetness and icy texture felt both familiar and comforting, a taste of home rooted in tradition. Paired with a small glass of Persian tea or chai, it was the perfect way to end the meal on a comforting, familiar note. I felt like I could’ve sat there all night, taking in the scents and flavors of home.
As a student, the price — about 40 to 50 pounds ($50-$63) per person — isn’t pocket change, but for the quality of food and the experience, it’s worth saving up for a special night out. Luckily, I was there with my uncle and if you know anything about Persian culture, you know there was no chance I was paying that for any part of that bill. Berenjak manages to feel upscale without losing the essence of Persian cuisine, something I rarely see.
Berenjak doesn’t just serve Persian food; it celebrates it with care and a bit of creativity. For anyone in London craving a taste of Iran, or even those new to the cuisine, this restaurant is a must-visit. It brought me back home, even if just for a few bites, and for that, I’ll be returning with friends.
