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Sanctuary: Toconoco Is A Cozy Retreat From The Chaos of London

Toconoco's play den pulses with creativity and imagination, filling the space with spirited energy. The London-based cafe in Hackney is a safe haven for families to enjoy a nourishing meal.
Toconoco’s play den pulses with creativity and imagination, filling the space with spirited energy. The London-based cafe in Hackney is a safe haven for families to enjoy a nourishing meal.
Joe Tourk

Toconoco, a Japanese cafe nestled in one of The Regent’s Canal’s serene cul-de-sacs of London, is so peaceful that it’s become my newfound sanctuary.

The view from Toconoco’s window captures the Regent’s Canal in London, where nature and industry blend harmoniously to create a unique urban landscape. (Joe Tourk)

The name Toconoco is a made-up Japanese word that translates to “Kids on the floor,” attributing to the space’s kid-friendly nature. Tucked behind a corner of the restaurant is an alcove dedicated as the playroom; toys of every strain scattered on the floor. The main attraction though, are the wooden structures that toddlers climb onto for makeshift jungle gym. Another popular hangout is next to the miniature cooking appliances, where games of pretend kitchen transpire. On weekends especially, it’s quite a heartwarming scene: Little tots strapped in high chairs, thick strands of udon dangling from their pursed lips.

The front of house, while thronged with millennials, has a similar sense of unstructured freedom. Whether people are hunched over laptops, lost in a book or deep in conversation, the communal table is the heart of the space – where you’ll likely want to snag a seat. Along the perimeter, low japanese-style benches with pillow cushions invite guests to relax and linger, adding to the laid-back, inclusive atmosphere.

Toconoco’s menu is immense without being overwhelming, delicious without being costly. In food terms, they offer hearty soups of miso and dashi and refreshing sides of edamame and chawan mushi (egg custard). If you’re of the ravenous few –me all the time– the ochazuke (green tea poured over rice), rice balls (ume, salmon, pork miso to name a few), or the many variations of noodles, hot or cold, will serve you well. There’s also set meals available, which combine all the items I referenced above and more. I calculated the average price of all the lunch sets, and it came to around eight pounds.

A comforting bowl of udon noodles, topped with sesame chicken, grounds me after a fleet-footed work week as a study abroad student in London. (Joe Tourk)

Now to the drinks… my muses.

Tasting the iced –or hot– black sesame latte with oat milk is like learning for the first time what the word divine means. Nutty, subtly bitter; a package of savory and sweet. What pools at the bottom of the glass –or mug if you get it hot (the mugs are tasteful works of pottery made by Japanese artist Shun Kadohashi) – are the remnants of the now-coagulated black sesame seeds. I’m a big texture guy, so I like to spoon a glob of the black sludge into my mouth, really extracting the flavor into my palate. I know; attractive to imagine.

I love the cold, overcast mornings at Toconoco where I nestle into a bowl of hot soup and close my eyes to the thrum of families. In my peripheral while reading a book, blurry little human legs march drunkenly around the room, carrying toy cars that I’m positive are sticky to the touch. Toconoco is truly a place for me to reset, so much so that I might end up criss-cross applesauce on the floor, 15 years younger.

About the Contributor
Joe Tourk
Joe Tourk, London Reporter
Joe Tourk is a journalism student studying abroad in London and reporting for The Oak Leaf News. A proclaimed foodie, Joe loves exploring new cuisines and plans to write food reviews in London. His favorite foods are Ethiopian and Burmese for their delicious fusion of cultures and ability to eat with your hands.